Building
the New chassis named DESTINY
"DESTINY" our upgraded 3d printed rc car chassis Version v.3.01
This is how we did it. Enjoy the video. You'll find detailed description below.
Chassis v.3.1 our most developed rc car chassis so far
The chassis was improved, lot of things were modificated compared to our latest design (Chassis of the Aventador).
We’ve come to the conclusion that we’re not doing any more custom upgrades for the newer car bodies. From now on, each upgrade will be available for all of our cars. That means there’ll always one type of chassis with the latest developments.
Here are the most important updates in line:
You could build a Chassis for any sizes
There are so called “VARYING” parts (orange on the picture). Which are the followings in line from left:
- Wheelnuts front and rear
- Side parts of the steering bar
- Dogbone (also printed+M2 screws)
- Rear rocking arm
- Front rocking arm
- Connecting part
The length (wheelbase) of the car will set by the connecting part the width (distance between the outer side of the tyres) will be adjusted by the different length rockingarms for the 175mm/180mm/185mm/190mm/195mm/200mm and the fine tuning with the wheelnuts
Base 0mm/+1mm/+2mm/+3mm/+4mm
For example if you need the width of 177mm you have to print the 175 mm rockingarm and use the +2mm Wheelnut.
All other parts always will be the same for all sizes.
All the M2 screws changed to M3
The M2 screw were too tiny, with the M3’s the chassis is more stabel and the assembly is much easier.
The middle body fixing part has 2 cut in size M4 threaded rod. Becuse it need to be sturdy.
We used only M2 screws for the arms of the printed dogbone, but a nail also could be used.
Magnets fixing the body to the chassis
As of now we will fixing the body to the chassis with magnets (grey in the section views). The orange parts are glued to the rc car’s bodyshell.
Size: 8mm diameter, width 4 mm.
8 pcs will needed, 4 pieces in front and 4 in the middle.
In the middle there will be also the possibility to fix the body with screws.
Front bearing changed to a bigger one
The new bearing is the same which is in use at the differential. Size: 10x15x4 mm.
The bearings are the two brown parts on the picture. The printed yellow shaft is screwed together with a printed cap and the bearings. The red assembled printed part can rotate trought the two M3x6mm screw “axis”.
The turnbuckle changeable in length at will thanks to the grey M3 threaded rod.
The ballconnector (orange) could be in three different sizes. The cup is designed for three sizes: 4mm/4,8mm/5mm.
The printed connectors to the ballhead are available in three different sizes
We noticed that the three most common Ballheads in this 1:10 scale are the 4mm/4,8mm/5mm.
We use 8 Ballheads/car by the turnbuckles(4 pcs) and the steering (4 pcs).
Rear bearing with two alternatives
The big bearing (10x15x4mm) is also available at the rear axle with printed parts (left side). I fixed the rim to the 3d printed shaft (light red) with M3x12 screw (blue). The yellow is the wheeladapter or wheelnut (hexagon).
The parts for the tamiya wheel axle are still available of course (right side).
If you print the rear shafts you can save another 10 dollars from ebay 🙂
Ebay Differential Inlet shaft with 10x15x4 bearings
The first idea was to make the possibility to use only one type of bearing throughout the rc car chassis. This is why i created the shown design. The yellow and the Turquoise Blue part are 3d printed the two brown are the bearings.
For this variation there is a housing that fits this, of course.
But the bigger bearing will also be in use if you 3D print the whole bevel gear set. (next point below 🙂
3d printed bevel gears
Sparing another 10 dollars from ebay 🙂 But you’ll don’t have a differential. It will be only a simple bevel gear drive. Anyway the number of teeth’s the gear ratio and the size is the same.
In this case all the 4 bearing (brown on the picture) are the same size: 10x15x4 mm
Assembly:
One side of the housing (green) assembled with the bearing(brown). Put the dogbone holder (white) in the bearing , than pull on the ring gear (red). Assemble the two bearing on the Pinion (pink), after that you can screw it with the clutch(turquoise blue) with M3x25. Place the pinion on to the ring gear. Than put the two side of the housings together (don’t forget the another bearing). At last the yellow dogbone holder. After that fix the red ring gear with the two side dogbone holder with M3x25, nut in the ivory part. Screw the housing together.
3D printed dogbone
Why ? I really don’t know why we don’t started with this at the very beginning.
Truly i don’t thought that it’ll work.
Recommended to print with 100% infill. It’ll warping a bit but’ll very sturdy.
The arms could be from M2 screws or from a Nail.
Three different sizes of rear shock absorber brackets and designed receiver and controller brackets
The bracket is in three different sizes for the rear shock absorber: 50mm/55mm/60mm
We created this two bracket for the receiewer and the controller. Attention ! It will only work for the exact type of devices. Check the sizes before printing if it’ll be good for you.
Parts list
Screws and nuts:
M4x40 1 piece + M4 nut
M4x25 2 piece
M3 ball joint 8 pieces
M3x30 2 pieces + 2x M3 nuts
M3x50 2 pieces + 2x M3 nuts
M3x25 2 pieces + 2x M3 nuts
M3x40 2 pieces + 2x M3 nuts
M3x10 2 pieces
M3x20 2 pieces
M2x12 39 pieces
M2x16 8 pieces
M2x20 11 pieces
M2x8 4 pieces
STL files archived with WinRAR
The whole design is made for scale 1:10
This is our third model’s self-developed Chassis.
It’s quite, sturdy now as it can be jumped with
Threaded rods:
M4 2 pieces 47mm long
M3 2 pieces 15mm long
M3 2 pieces 11mm long
Magnets:
D8x4 2 pieces
Nails:
D2x38 4 pieces
Bearings:
4x10x4 4 pieces
5x11x5 6 pieces
10x15x4 2 pieces
3D printing settings we used
3D Printer: Zortrax M200 plus
Technology: LPD
Used material: ABS filamen
Slicer program: Zortrax Z-SUITE
Settings:
Infill: 20%
Recomended layer height: 0.19 mm
Support was set automatically by the program
Parts you need to get
The following parts are optional
5x11x5 bearing
Alternative Bearing for gearbox-2pcs and for the rear wheelaxle 4 pcs when tamiya 50823 is used
Most used tools
Scalpel&Allenkeys&RASPs
Scalpel for removing print support. Keys for screws. Every kind of Rasps to get the surface smooth and even.
Super glue
Both Gel and Liquid ones. Use GEL when putting parts together. When it holds use LIQUID on the surface.
Glue Gun
It’s adhesive sets very quickly. We used it only inside the body kit, because on the surface leaves nasty traces.
