the New chassis named DESTINY

"DESTINY" our upgraded 3d printed rc car chassis Version v.3.01

This is how we did it. Enjoy the video. You'll find detailed description below.

STL files archived with WinRAR

Chassis v.3.1 our most developed rc car chassis so far

The chassis was improved, lot of things were modificated compared to our latest design (Chassis of the Aventador).

We’ve come to the conclusion that we’re not doing any more custom upgrades for the newer car bodies.  From now on, each upgrade will be available for all of our cars.  That means there’ll always one type of chassis with the latest developments.


Here are the most important updates in line:

You could build a Chassis for any sizes

There are so called “VARYING” parts (orange on the picture). Which are the followings in line from left: 
  • Wheelnuts front and rear
  • Side parts of the steering bar
  • Dogbone (also printed+M2 screws)
  • Rear rocking arm
  • Front rocking arm 
  • Connecting part
The length (wheelbase) of the car will set by the connecting part the width (distance between the outer side of the tyres) will be adjusted by the different length rockingarms for the 175mm/180mm/185mm/190mm/195mm/200mm and the fine tuning with the wheelnuts 
Base 0mm/+1mm/+2mm/+3mm/+4mm
For example if you need the width of 177mm you have to print the 175 mm rockingarm and use the +2mm Wheelnut. 
All other parts always will be the same for all sizes. 
rc car 3d printed
rc car parts 3d printed

All the M2 screws changed to M3

The M2 screw were too tiny, with the M3’s the chassis is more stabel and the assembly is much easier. 
The middle body fixing part has 2 cut in size M4 threaded rod. Becuse it need to be sturdy.
We used only M2 screws for the arms of the printed dogbone, but a nail also could be used. 

rc car screw with m3 screw

Magnets fixing the body to the chassis 

As of now we will fixing the body to the chassis with magnets (grey in the section views). The orange parts are glued to the rc car’s bodyshell.
Size: 8mm diameter, width 4 mm. 
8 pcs will needed, 4 pieces in front and 4 in the middle.
In the middle there will be also the possibility to fix the body with screws.
rc car chassis

Front bearing changed to a bigger one

The new bearing is the same which is in use at the differential. Size: 10x15x4 mm.  
The bearings are the two brown parts on the picture. The printed yellow shaft is screwed together with a printed cap and the bearings. The red assembled printed part can rotate trought the two M3x6mm screw “axis”. 
The turnbuckle changeable in length at will thanks to the grey M3 threaded rod. 
The ballconnector (orange) could be in three different sizes. The cup is designed for three sizes: 4mm/4,8mm/5mm.
rc car front shaft section view

The printed connectors to the ballhead are available in three different sizes

We noticed that the three most common Ballheads in this 1:10 scale are the 4mm/4,8mm/5mm.
We use 8 Ballheads/car by the turnbuckles(4 pcs) and the steering (4 pcs).
3d printed rc car ballhead connector

Rear bearing with two alternatives

The big bearing (10x15x4mm) is also available at the rear axle with printed parts (left side). I fixed the rim to the 3d printed shaft (light red) with M3x12 screw (blue). The yellow is the wheeladapter or wheelnut (hexagon). 
The parts for the tamiya wheel axle are still available of course (right side). 
If you print the rear shafts you can save another 10 dollars from ebay 🙂
3d printed rc car shaft

Ebay Differential Inlet shaft with 10x15x4 bearings

The first idea was to make the possibility to use only one type of bearing throughout the rc car chassis. This is why i created the shown design. The yellow and the Turquoise Blue part are 3d printed the two brown are the bearings. 
For this variation there is a housing that fits this, of course.
But the bigger bearing will also be in use if you 3D print the whole bevel gear set. (next point below 🙂
3d printed parts for inlet shaft

3d printed bevel gears

Sparing another 10 dollars from ebay 🙂 But you’ll don’t have a differential. It will be only a simple bevel gear drive.  Anyway the number of teeth’s the gear ratio and the size is the same. 
In this case all the 4 bearing (brown on the picture) are the same size: 10x15x4 mm 
One side of the housing (green) assembled with the bearing(brown). Put the dogbone holder (white) in the bearing , than pull on the ring gear (red). Assemble the two bearing on the Pinion (pink), after that you can screw it with the clutch(turquoise blue) with M3x25. Place the pinion on to the ring gear.  Than put the two side of the housings together (don’t forget the another bearing). At last the yellow dogbone holder. After that fix the red ring gear with the two side dogbone holder with M3x25, nut in the ivory part. Screw the housing together.
3d printed bevel gear set

3D printed dogbone

Why ? I really don’t know why we don’t started with this at the very beginning. 
Truly i don’t thought that it’ll work. 
Recommended to print with 100% infill. It’ll warping a bit but’ll very sturdy. 
The arms could be from M2 screws or from a Nail.
3d printed rc car dogbone

Three different sizes of rear shock absorber brackets and designed receiver and controller brackets

The bracket is in three different sizes for the rear shock absorber: 50mm/55mm/60mm 
We created this two bracket for the receiewer and the controller.  Attention ! It will only work for the exact type of devices. Check the sizes before printing if it’ll be good for you.
custom rc car gearbox

Parts list

Screws and nuts:
M4x40                   1 piece          + M4 nut
M4x25                   2 piece

M3 ball joint         8 pieces
M3x30                   2 pieces        + 2x M3 nuts
M3x50                   2 pieces        + 2x M3 nuts
M3x25                   2 pieces        + 2x M3 nuts
M3x40                   2 pieces        + 2x M3 nuts
M3x10                   2 pieces
M3x20                   2 pieces
M2x12                   39 pieces
M2x16                   8 pieces
M2x20                   11 pieces
M2x8                     4 pieces

STL files archived with WinRAR

The whole design is made for scale 1:10
This is our third model’s self-developed Chassis.
It’s quite, sturdy now as it can be jumped with

Threaded rods:
M4    2 pieces    47mm long
M3    2 pieces    15mm long
M3    2 pieces    11mm long

D8x4     2 pieces
D2x38   4 pieces

4x10x4       4 pieces
5x11x5       6 pieces
10x15x4     2 pieces

3D printing settings we used

3D Printer: Zortrax M200 plus
Technology: LPD
Used material: ABS filamen
Slicer program: Zortrax Z-SUITE

Infill: 20%
Recomended layer height: 0.19 mm
Support was set automatically by the program

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Parts you need to get

shock absorber


hole to hole distance: 60 mm

RC car wheels


Fastrax scale 1:10 Tyre diameter is: 65 mm Product number: FAST0078GM

Ball cups for steering

4.8 mm ballhead with M3 thread. Tamiya 50592

model factory


 Feetech FS5103B

Motor 540

  7.2 – 12 V , 20.000 rpm

10x15x4 bearing

12 pcs 8 for the wheels and 4 in to the differential

The following parts are optional


HSP 94103

Bewel gear inlet

this is the inlet gear to the differential

Flange lock nut

Tamiya: 53024 

You will need if you use Tamiya 50823 rear wheelaxle

5x11x5 bearing 

Alternative Bearing for gearbox-2pcs and for the rear wheelaxle 4 pcs when tamiya 50823 is used

TG10 Wheel Axle 2 pcs

Tamiya: 50823

Wheel adapter

Tamiya: 53056 
It is needed when Tamiya 50823 is used

Filling unwanted cracks

Tamiya: 87053                            Get it on ebay

Here’s a full assembly video of a very similar chassis. Enjoy 🙂

Most used tools


Scalpel for removing print support. Keys for screws. Every kind of Rasps to get the surface smooth and even.

Most Used Parts for Assembly

Super glue

Both Gel and Liquid ones. Use GEL when putting parts together. When it holds use LIQUID on the surface.

Super glue for assembly

Glue Gun

It’s adhesive sets very quickly. We used it only inside the body kit, because on the surface leaves nasty traces.
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