the BMW e46 M3 GTR from NFS MW

How to build a custom RC BMW M3 GTR?

This is how we did it.

Were you a teenager and a car enthusiast around 2005 ish? Well, then you’re just like us! NFS M3 GTR We Forever Love YOU ūüėÄ

As always we let you be the judge to tell how well we could capture it.
Our aim was to get it as much authentic as  possible.

Testing Video

STL files archived with WinRAR

Chassis v.2.0

We strive for an ultimate universal chassis because we wanna use it under many 3D printed car bodies. So that’s why the slidable parts

The chassis is built on a 2 (aluminium) U profile (8×10 mm) with bought and 3D printed parts.

3D printed parts: Housing of the electric motor, housing of the battery, most of the steering system… 

Bought parts are:
 The suspension (length 60 mm), the different wheel rims with the tires, the servo, the receiver, drive shaft and the differential is from Tamiya, the electric motor (17000 rpm), and of course screws (M2, M3) and the ball joints (M3).

Parts List

Screws and nuts:
M4x40                   1 piece          + M4 nut
M4x~25                2 piece

M2x12                  ~50 pieces
M2x16                  ~16 pieces
M2x20                  ~16 pieces
M2x8                    ~ 8  pieces
D2x38   4 pieces
Threaded rods:
M4    2 pieces    47mm long
4x10x4     4 pieces          
5x11x5     8 pieces

STL files archived with WinRAR

The whole design is made for scale 1:10
This is our second model’s self-developed Chassis.
It’s not perfect, but definitely
better than the first one!

3D printing settings we used

3D Printer: Zortrax M200 plus
Technology: LPD
Used material: ABS filamen
Slicer program: Zortrax Z-SUITE

Infill: 20%
Recomended layer height: 0.2mm
Support was set automatically by the program

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Non-printed parts


Shock absorber 

Hole to hole distance: 60 mm

Rocking arm screw

2mm nail 35-40mm long. Threaded (DIY), used as a screw. Note: Spring washer used!


Get a 1:10 wheels from any RC shop then use the tires  for your own printed Rims                        Browse on ebay

Ball cups for steering

4 mm ball with 3mm screw thread.



Part number: FS90R

Wheel adapter

Tamiya: 53056 

Rear Drive Shaft

Tamiya: 51216 TA05 
A front drive shaft must be shortened

Flange lock nut

Tamiya: 53024

Differential bevel gear set

Tamiya: 50602

Touring car hard joint cup set

Tamiya: 53218

TG10 Wheel Axle 2 pcs

Tamiya: 50823

U profile trails 2 pc

¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† 8×10 mm from hardware store¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬†

Motor 540

  7.2 Р12 V , 20.000 rpm

Body mounting system

Middle and Frontal mount developed by us

Vinyl Head and Rear Lights

Vinyls used for Lights

Head and Rear lights printed on adhesive paper

4x10x4 bearing 

Front wheel bearing

5x11x5 bearing 

Bearing for gearbox

Bumper Grille

Mosquito net used at front Bumper raw material from Hardware Store


3D Printed base painted Brown, then plastic from Stationery Store glued at the edges to it 


Here are the bigger body parts

Most used tools


Scalpel for removing print support. Keys for screws. Every kind of Rasps to get the surface smooth and even.

Most Used Parts for Assembly

Super glue

Both Gel and Liquid ones. Use GEL when putting parts together. When it holds use LIQUID on the surface.

Super glue for assembly

Glue Gun

It’s adhesive sets very quickly. We used it only inside the body kit, because on the surface leaves nasty traces.
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